Your lender’s first offer is rarely its best. I’ll compare it against 50+ lenders (banks, credit unions and private lenders) and show you fixed and variable side by side, on your numbers.

Or call 226-242-1969.

Send me the basics

Name

How it works

  1. Send me the basics: maturity date, balance, and your lender’s offer if you have it.
  2. I shop it: fixed and variable across 50+ lenders, plus what a switch would take.
  3. You decide: renew or switch. If your lender’s offer is the best one, I’ll tell you.

Why compare

Lenders count on you signing the first letter they mail. Renewal is one of the few times you can move your mortgage without a penalty. It’s also a chance to restructure: change your amortization, set payments to match how you’re paid, or refinance to consolidate higher-interest debt. A refinance does mean re-qualifying.

Your renewal checklist

To switch, you’ll typically need: your renewal offer or mortgage statement, recent pay stubs or an employment letter (2 years of NOAs if self-employed), your property tax bill, home insurance details, and photo ID.

FAQ

Does switching cost anything?

Often not. Many lenders cover legal and appraisal costs on a straight switch, up to a limit. Your current lender may charge a discharge fee. You’ll see every cost before you decide.

Do I have to re-qualify?

Not for a straight switch (same balance and amortization) to a federally regulated lender; that stress test was dropped in late 2024. Adding money or extending the amortization is a refinance, and that does require qualifying.

When should I start?

4–6 months before maturity. A 90–120-day rate hold protects you if rates rise.

What if my bank’s offer is good?

Then renew with them, knowing it’s a good offer instead of guessing.